Tips and Practice Techniques
Many of these were introduced to me on Japan Speed Cubing Club and the Yahoo! speedcubing forums.
Buy/Make/Maintain a Good Speedcube
For durable stickers, I recommend Cubesmith . Serious speedcubers should learn to create and maintain a speedcube that best fits his solving style. Experiment with several top cubes (see speedcubes.net ), different screw tensions, and different lubricants (silicone spray of various brands (Tempo, SNAP, CRC, Jig-a-Loo), shock oil of various weights, etc). WD-40 quickly wears out the plastic; good speedcubes should not need it. (Leaving WD-40 on a very tight cube for a few days may make it tolerable, but it would never become a good speedcube.) Disassemble and clean out the dust inside the cube once in a while. Gilles Roux has a helpful guide on lubrication with pictures. With some brands of silicone spray, it can help to completely disassemble the cube, remove excess lubricant with paper towels, and blow-dry.
Exactly how much to lubricate is each speedcuber's choice. Very lubricated cubes will allow faster execution for last layer while less lubricated (but smooth) cubes can help looking ahead during F2L. It's also a good idea for competitions to use a cube that almost never POPs.
I lube my cube every three months or so and usually about two weeks before any competition. From that point, I play with each lubed cube to make sure that the lubricant sinks in and the cube is not too slippery. Although slippery cubes let you turn more moves per second, you are more likely to lose control and make them lock up than with a less-lubricated one. For loss of just a bit of speed, you can gain a lot of accuracy and look ahead much more easily, which is very important.
Inspection and Cross
- Learn your color scheme by heart. From the center colors of any two adjacent sides, you should be able to immediately tell the colors of the other sides.
- Taking as much time as needed for each scramble, form the cross in 7 or less moves. You should be able to do this over 99% of the time.
- Repeat 2, but solve the cross blindfolded. Practice until there are no mistakes.
- Repeat 2, gradually decreasing the inspection time until you can always read the cross in 15 seconds. Once you get faster, you don't need to always follow the 7-move rule. Some solutions will be slightly longer but easier to execute.
- The transition from cross to F2L is important! This is where even fast cubers have to stop most often ("cube amnesia").
- Slow down during the cross to prepare for the first corner-edge pair of F2L. You may want to avoid using finger tricks for the cross to help look ahead.
- Solve without preinspection. This forces you to slow down and lets you move from cross to F2L more smoothly.
- Form the cross in such a way that, when it is completed, it ends up where you want it during F2L. This eliminates a cube turn before F2L and also helps the transition. (There are a few top speedcubers who do not do this.)
F2L
- Before you even start learning full F2L, read my article Getting Fast with an Easy Method .
- If you've just started learning, try to make sense of each "algorithm" and group similar algorithms together. Not only will this help with memorization, but also an intuitive understanding of F2L is essential for looking ahead and using advanced tricks.
- Reduce regripping as much as possible. This requires, among other things, being able to perform each "algorithm" from every direction.
- Find your perfect style. Some like to keep the centers fixed; others use a lot of double layer turns and tilts (this is what I do). Watch speedcubing videos and learn how fast cubers handle F2L.
- OK, here's the best speedcubing advice anyone can ever give you: GO SLOW , and LOOK AHEAD . Wait, what was that?
In case you didn't catch that,
and LOOK AHEAD!!!
If there's one thing that can help you average sub-20, this is it. Read my Guide to F2L Look Ahead . Find your average F2L tps and theoretical average. Set a goal for yourself, and practice with the metronome technique.